Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast

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North Point Press #ad - From captain cook and mark twain to robinson jeffers and jack London, from portraits of famous and infamous surfers to an analysis of Gidget's perverse significance, Duane expertly uncovers the myths and symbols bound up in one of our most vibrant and recognizably American subjects. A wondrous, uproarious, and surprisingly informative account of a year spend surfing, Caught Inside marks the arrival of an exuberant new voice of the outdoors.

. This remarkable narrative of daniel duane's life on the water is enhanced by good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, and lyrical, the intricate art of surfboard design, sharp-eyed descriptions of the flora and fauna of the Pacific wilderness.

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In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road

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TarcherPerigee #ad - It deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away. In search of captain zero: a surfer's road trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October. In 1996, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, Patrick, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, who had vanished into the depths of Central America.

In search of captain zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend.

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

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Penguin Books #ad - As finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s.

I’d sooner press this book upon on a nonsurfer, in part because nothing I’ve read so accurately describes the feeling of being stoked or the despair of being held under. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Asia, Australia, Africa. But on a more fundamental level,  Barbarian Days offers a clear-eyed vision of American boyhood.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life #ad - A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them.

A coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard. Sports illustratedincluded in president obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List  Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu.

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Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

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Free Press #ad - With grit, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, and humor, most of all, Peter Heller, poetry, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.

Author of the new york times bestselling novel the dog stars winner of the national outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook surfese for beginner to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet.

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave #ad - Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. Exuberant and fearless, heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. Free Press. As heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder.

Exhilarating, kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, entertaining, a man and his girlfriend, and moving, a not-so-old man and the sea.

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Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea

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Wisdom Publications #ad - Free Press. Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life.

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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing

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It Books #ad - Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. Free Press. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world. A finalist for the pen center usa award for nonfictionwelcome to paradise, danger, account of beauty, greed, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, Now Go to Hell, and crime.

For two months every winter, swarms of mainlanders, brazilians, Australians, when Pacific storms make landfall, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing #ad - Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, power, the surf industry, money, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, and crime, outsiders, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life.

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Tapping the Source: A Novel

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Scribner #ad - National book award finalist kem nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, sadistic surfers, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers.

. Ike tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. Free Press. Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from.

Tapping the Source: A Novel #ad - . And a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

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Breath: A Novel

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Picador #ad - Venturing beyond all caution--in sports, relationships, and sex--each character approaches a point from which none of them will return undamaged. The boys give no thought to what they could lose, or to the demons that drive their mentor on into ever-greater danger. Their mentor urges them into a regiment of danger and challenge, and the boys test themselves and each other on storm swells and over shark-haunted reefs.

Now a major motion picture, and richard roxburghBreath is a story of risk, Starring Simon Baker, Elizabeth Debicki, of learning one's limits by challenging death. Free Press. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. On the wild, lonely coast of western Australia, two thrill-seeking teenage boys fall under the spell of a veteran big-wave surfer named Sando.

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Cosmic Banditos

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Berkley #ad - Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. Only months before, these three and their fearless associates were rolling in millions in cash and high-grade marijuana, eluding prosecution on “ridiculously false” drug and terrorism charges. Quark on a side-splitting, the nature of the universe, boisterous adventure north to California, where he confronts the owner of the books with his own theories on relativity, and looking for the meaning of life in all the wrong places….

Free Press. But times have quickly grown lean, and to liven up their exile, Jose decides to mug a family of American tourists. Soon to be a major motion picture starring John Cusack!Mr. Among the spoils are physics texts, which launch Mr. Quark is a down-on-his luck pot-smuggler hiding out in the mountains of Colombia with his dog, High Pockets, and a small band of banditos led by the irascible Jose.

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Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair

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Rare Bird Books, A Vireo Book #ad - And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. The 1960–70s image, was one of mild outlaws―tanned boys refusing to grow up, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water.

But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The rise of cocaine in american popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable.

. Free Press. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, murders, surf contests, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, even from insiders, bar fights, and cover-ups. Cocaine + surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair #ad - Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea. From the author of welcome to paradise, now go to Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for NonfictionIt’s no surprise that surfers like to party. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, bravery, vitality, and clean-living.

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Morning Glass: The Adventures of Legendary Waterman Mike Doyle

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Picacho #ad - I suspect his revelations may ruffle a few feathers. Steve pezman, surfer's Journal Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. Used book in Good Condition. Free Press. Eccentric characters shuffle and strut in and out of Doyle's tale and breathe life into this unusual history of surfing. Honolulu star bulletin"full of humor and inside stories that capture the youthful joy and innocence of the formative years of the California beach culture.

San diego union-tribune"Morning Glass is a thoughtful portrait of a man enthralled with the ocean. Orange county register"mike has an incredible story to tell and every surfer who believes surfing is more than just a hobby must read it. Surfing magazine"he came from a period when surf heroes were individuals, each with a distinct personality and character.

Morning Glass: The Adventures of Legendary Waterman Mike Doyle #ad - . Saltwater buddha a Surfer s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea.

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